This style of jacket is referred to as a gonete, a cos or a saino according to Ruth Anderson [Hispanic Costume 1480-1530, pg 213].I am using the information gathered by Kate Newton in her recreation of the same piece of clothing. On Ms. Newton's webpage she states that "Carmen Bernis, the formidable Spanish clothing historian, refers to pretty much every short jackety Spanish thing as a gonete. "
Ms. Newton's work has been highly inspirational to me and I hope she will not be offended if I take a few liberties with her research. I currently have no wool fabric on-hand, nor do I have the money to buy any. Therefore this gonete will need to be created out of the linen I have on hand. I plan to make over an old pale blue linen fencing doublet into the inner and outer layers I feel this garment will need and use a piece of heavy cotton canvas as the stiffening layer. I will also use a royal blue 50/50 linen-cotton blend fabric as the bias and trim. I will need to learn how to create a softly-curved peplum for the lower edge of the garment and I will use hook and eyes as the closure.
When I do get this pattern put together in a way I like, I have a mulberry colored velvet that I will use to make my outfit for next Yule. I will spend some time practicing my goldwork embroidery and attempt to recreate the middle picture. I hope to find a closer look at the goldwork around that collar sometime soon.
First Plan of Attack:
Take apart old doublet
Iron it
Use cotton canvas to make a pattern/ lining
Cut linen to pattern and sew up
Cut and iron trim and attach
Set hooks
Create needlelace "eyes"
Let's see what happens next!
